A Small Wonder

House of Small Wonder is a little miracle in the big city.

When people visit and we’ve done the Brandenburg Gate, Museum Island, etc. and we’re trudging along Friedrichstrasse, there is one question that I dread above all other questions: know anywhere good to eat near here?

NO. No (I would think, sweating a storm and biting my lip), I did not know anywhere good to eat, unless you were happy wandering aimlessly until giving in to a döner, currywurst or burrito. Otherwise I’d persuade you to let me drag your rumbling tummy twenty minutes on the train to somewhere where there might be better, locally credible options. That was the fearful situation a few months ago. Then the miracle happened. Continue reading “A Small Wonder”

Simple is sweet

And I don’t mean in a let’s-get-back-to-our-coffee-roasting-roots kind of way.

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Incidentally, Ako does do good coffee. And sweetly decorated notebooks. And soft padded stationery cases. And is a mini art gallery. And co-shares the space with a record shop and two cats. And does the best interpretation of the elusive British scone that I’ve tasted in Berlin – infused with Earl Grey or plain and always served like this: Continue reading “Simple is sweet”

Nibbles at Nibs

Let me introduce you to chocolate.

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Mine.

Hot chocolate should be so good that you’d squeeze yourself, chunky winter layers and all, onto a tiny bench for it. Hence why the above photo features someone’s legs in the background. In fact, Nibs Cacao is so tiny that I barely had enough space to swing a camera around. If you live in Berlin, then the narrow chocolatiers will remind you of your bathroom. If you don’t live in Berlin, line up a couple of medium-sized wardrobes side by side, then add a chest of drawers to make an L-shape – that’s Nibs.

If you’re lazy *AHEM* freelance like me, then go at the most unpopular time you can, unless you enjoy doing battle with fellow chocoholics – there will be a queue. Once inside, admire the wide selection of flavoured hot chocolates they have. And then forget all of them, apart from the one at the very top of the menu board: the Spanish hot chocolate. Why? For the same reason that this kind of chocolate is served with a spoon – it’s so thick, so oozing with real chocolate, that you’re supposed to eat it rather than drink it. To ease you into this idea of eating your drink, they also serve the Spanish version with freshly fried churros. Never had it? Picture doughnuts, only better – fluffy on the inside, crispy on the outside, and sprinkled with sugar. “Can it get more heavenly than that?!” screams your inner greedy person. Oh yes it can: the churros and the chocolate are made fresh – the Spanish hot chocolate always has a quick turnover. Continue reading “Nibbles at Nibs”

Stooping to the steep

Berliners: don’t get too high and mighty about the TV Tower

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Family resemblance?

After spending a total of 17 months in the city, I finally condescended to do the number one Berlin tourist activity: I went up the TV Tower.

There are more reasons that Berliners could give you for not going up the TV Tower than there are steps in the oversized thing: expensive ticket prices, expensive restaurant and bar menu, constantly busy with all the wrong people, you have to book miles in advance, there are so many other cheaper places to get a panorama of the city, it’s always there anyway so what’s the rush, etc. etc. with a few more snobby remarks for an extra bit of Berlin-born-and-bred superiority. Even Berliners-by-choice like me are so keen to be a part of the ‘authentic’ Berlin club, we’ll start saying these things without having ever set foot inside. Continue reading “Stooping to the steep”

Get out while you still can

The 3rd of October is a very important day.

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Would you believe that there was a near sheer drop just outside this frame?

 And by that I mean, I was sitting outside, basking in evening sunshine, actually grateful for a cold marble table under my arms, and checking our little old thermometer in disbelief – autumn isn’t normally defined as a balmy 20-degree day where I come from.

This must be fate: many moons ago, I went on a stroll with a friend to Teufelsberg in the ‘last’ days of summer. The very next week, it was already cold enough to be wearing two layers of knitwear. The weather gods decreed: thou shalt not blog about doing outdoorsy things. I thought my Grunewald post’s days were numbered.

But the Indian summer god of Berlin has been vicious to the mean Siberian winter gods of Berlin. They let their guard down for a week and – DING! – scorching sunshine. Well, almost. Good enough to give me a second chance to tell you: get yo’ ass over to Grunewald before those Siberian gods come back. Continue reading “Get out while you still can”

It never gets old

In a city where new discoveries are old hat, it’s hard to believe that finding a hidden gem is still possible.

The throne of heaven.

No prizes for finding the amusing detail in this idyllic scene.

Let’s be honest: the secret hideaways of Berlin are fast becoming common knowledge. The infamous abandoned TB clinics and theme parks are regularly frequented by intrepid explorers; hipster cafes are impossibly full for the Berlin Sunday brunchtime; and if you find yourself haggling for an authentic vintage satchel at a flea market, you will probably have to engage in physical combat with your neighbours. More or less.

But finding something new doesn’t need to be this way; it doesn’t have to involve anything illegal, it doesn’t need to be covered in graffiti, and it doesn’t have to be in the East of Berlin, either. Not that I have anything against those qualities (well, maybe the first) – I love the East as much as any Expat. But in my opinion, consciously avoiding the West on those soul-searching flaneurs is a big mistake. If you really want to be different, stop thinking about what the mainstream is up to and think about what you (yes, you!) have not yet done. Continue reading “It never gets old”

Berlin car2go

Ausländer to Insider

Moving to Berlin for the second time round seems like a piece of sausage.

The first time, I had a couple of friends already there, but they had what I didn’t have – a life. In the first few months of living abroad, obtaining this precious thing was my ultimate aim, and I went about my work ruthlessly… er, I mean, engagingly. Thankfully there were some people in this town who were crazy enough to like me for that, and believe it or not, they’re not too hard to find.

Abroad, alone, and with absolutely nothing to lose. In the right hands, these three setbacks can be weapons of mass abduction, capable of ensnaring unsuspecting acquaintances-to-be. How? With a bit of guts, a lot of patience, and no shame whatsoever. Berlin is the perfect city to push the boat out in as it is flooded with choice in terms of things to do. Daily. If you’re not in Berlin, then try not to allow your burning envy stop you getting inspiration from these cunning tricks.

[Note: no strangers were harmed in the making of this article. Hopefully.]
Continue reading “Ausländer to Insider”